Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Alfaro

Weekend evenings give rise to opportunities, opportunities give rise to amazing experiences, and the bulk of people living here are living temporarily, so enthralling activities with random people are common. Making friends here is an interesting process as they come and go within weeks, and can linger in close friend mode for a vague and extended amount of time, or disappear into other circles immediately. The general idea in the majority of people living/studying in another country is - to have a good time while accomplishing their respective goals, and to make friends away from home since they don't really know anyone. This happens to every single person here, no exceptions.

The places I've seen and people I've met since arriving to Spain are innumerable, but I've tried to remember and document some. Spontaneous activities are consistently the most banginest and experiential; I took part in one this past weekend in a nearby pueblo called Alfaro.





I decided the night before to catch a  morning bus with the newly formed adventure adventure dream team from Logroño : together we were Dutch, British, Australian, and Americans invading the Riojan pueblo of Alfaro. With no real ideas of what would comprise the day, we found a medieval market, a feat of strength and skills, and some good food and wine sampling. The market offered many locals dressed in early 10th century garb, openly grilled meats, fine cheeses, and a strange assortment of rare animals on display. The cheeses were superb and sharp, and the chorizo placed inside of toasted rolls was fresh. The strength and bravo exuded by some "recortadores" - men testing their mettle by attempting to play rings on the horns of angry cows, was amazing. Some of them pole-vaulted over bulls. It was truly engaging and attention grabbing spectacle worth the time and money. I was exponentially more accepting of the activity since the animals were not harmed during the show, nor killed afterwards. The day passed quickly and was even better as I met my companions along the way. We had a great time and were back into Logroño by dinner time.























If it weren't for the festival , the city wasn't really all too aesthetically pleasing, but being as it was a special event, the market, street grilled foods, and stilted jesters proved to provide a great time.






It was a blast.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Biribay

A tall, red-faced Scottish buddy of mine just played a gig at a local place called Biribay Jazz Club, where many bands typically play. I've seen a bevy of groups play here, such as Los Babas - a 2 man group who sing about wacky stories and nonsense while rocking attire suitably described as a mix between The Red Hot Chili Peppers and Spice Girls, Los Mutagenicos - a surfy rock and roll band that do a damn good job at filling the bar and kicking ass, The Lost Noize - an eclectic folky rock group that completes all requirements to please a crowd, and a handful of other good bands; but the most recent was my friend Roddys' band called Coffin Dodgers. They performed last weekend, showcasing good old fashioned rock n' roll with a hint of blues on the red and blue lit stage in the Biribay. The long rectangular shape of the place offers a long bar with plenty of cocktails, and in case you can't make it down to the stage area at the far end, or if you are just going to get a drink mid-show, there is always a camera connected to a big screen tv behind the bar so you can pretend to be in the front row. During the week there are various activities for everyone, where you can easily enjoy pop music, play boardgames, or see jazz and blues shows. It's been a great place to go all year long, and I always look forward to more good times and music there. Here are a few pictures of some performances.
                                        
                                                       Coffin Dodgers



                                                The Lost Noize



                                                         Los Babas
I just realized I couldn't find my pictures of Los Mutagenicos, but hopefully you will check the links to see / hear the bands a bit. Cheers.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Monte Cantabria

Monte Cantabria is a small hill/mountain/thing that is located in the north-east of Logroño by the "polígono", or industrial parks on the other side of the Rio Ebro. During the hellaciously fickle weather that we've been experiencing, my friends Alex, Chris, Victoria, and me decided to make something out of one of the nicer days, and hike to the top of the "mountains". In the walls of its red clay base are small windows carved in where people used to live, or something like that. Ascending the green path towards the top, we encountered a field full of South American immigrants having a bit party, old Spanish women chatting and offering refreshments for passers by, and random articles of clothing discarded along the way. Upon reaching the top of this once archaeological dig-site, we were presented with a precious view of all Logroño in its splendor and majesty. Fresh fruits and hot sun were all we needed to enjoy the sights.

Najera


I went on a field trip with the 14 year old students and their German exchange student to Najera a few weeks ago. Najera is a quick hour or so away by bus from my workplace, where we had the pleasure of visiting a beautiful cathedral with tombs, a small church where pilgrims can stop and pray on their way along the Camino de Santiago, and then let the children do some "orienteering". It was simply a better experience than giving my students a presentation on how their food is frighteningly better and readily available than ours is int the United States. Here are some pictures..

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Shock value DOES still exist

I had the unique and strange displeasure of witnessing a live "performance art" presentation this passed weekend called Porno Terrorismo. (I highly suggest you think twice before clicking that link if you are easily disturbed by things that are terribly disturbing) I was duped by some Spanish friends into attending the gritty, shocking "poetry reading" found inside of a dark old warehouse in a foul-smelling alleyway just around the corner from my house. Entering the archaic chamber of what used to be some cavernous warehouse, I saw a large white screen on stage, an audiovisual control table set up, and a naked woman putting on a strap-on....??? Now, I don't know what you guys do in your spare time, but I don't think that it is normal to really EVER see that in real life. The foreshadowing bestowed upon me before the REAL kick-off that was later carried out with some truly heinous acts was mere childs play...

Two women with Mexican wrestling masks on were on the stage; one in a jumpsuit, the other barely wrapped in bandaged with her breasts exposed, while wielding scissors. After some frightening movements with the scissors, she plunged them into her belly, producing a flow of bright red fake blood that spilled messily about her legs and the floor. She unraveled the bandages, and we were now presented with, to be fair, a butt-naked bull dyke with a mohawk shaved into her head, who was "bleeding" all over the stage. She then read us some raunchy ass poetry about doing whatever she wants to get off, and really got things started with some crowd participation!

 "Hey you, cute little Spanish girl with black rimmed glasses in a white dress, want to come up here and whip my back and ass while my accomplice over here removes her jump-suit to reveal the horse sized strap-on cock for me to suck on, and vomit on-stage with????"

Yea... I was not ready for that either. Nor was I ready for her accomplice to fist her, with a video camera that projected the image on the white screen, while she read poetry, and then have her squirt vaginal fluids all over the stage. I was constantly turning to my companions, attempting to rationalize what the hell was going on in front of me, and perhaps understand why and how they had become aware of this spectacles' presence. No information of the sort was ever really presented to me, and it was all quite shocking as I had never seen anything of the sort before. The two women drank beers, belched into the microphone, and chain-smoked cigarettes on stage for the duration of the show. Seriously.

The movement and motive behind the entire shabang was to have freedom of expression; to be able to love a woman, to enjoy whatever sick and twisted shit that you want to, and also the idea of shock as a tool to stimulate the mind in a sexually provocative way, as well as using strange unknown themes to strike fear into the mind of the viewer (as terrorism intends).

The only thing it provoked was my open mouth and look of horror for a little over and hour. Dios Mio.

Friday, May 7, 2010

amsterdam



Royal Dutch Airways was the way to go when traversing Western Europe and had us arriving in Amsterdam at about 10pm. It was really refreshing because the people in Holland all speak English and Marta doesn't, so I was finding myself being the translator and quazi guide right off the bat just to get us into the city-center. We made our airport experience much easier by traveling without check bags. A cheap train from the airport to the center of the chaotic waterland city that is Amsterdam was the first step towards being constantly lost and confused. The second was getting onto a tram from the station in the center of Amsterdam, and heading towards... the center of Amsterdam? To legally use this tram correctly, you get onto the middle of the car, pay for a ticket to a morbidly obese woman inside of a box, get confused, and sit down. The woman you pay does not control the car, she just asks for money. After the tram, we walked found our hostel with reasonable ease, but upon entering, found that reaching our top floor room was of double black diamond difficulty. The stairs were definitely inclined to a point that they were at about a 28 degree angle raised from the floor, were about 6 inches deep, and ascended at a 60 degree angle. Once reaching our penthouse suite, we found it to be a quaint room with an A frame shape, with high ceilings and wooden beams a foot above your head for support. The shower we shared with another 2 person room was big enough to have 4 people standing, and had no windows, but rather some kind of naval, metal wire covered light bulb to shed some light on your private cleaning. We went out for a beer in the plaza. Amsterdam was already amazing, and like nothing I had every seen, felt, or experienced withinin one or two short hours after our arrival.

The night was full of music, boisterous transportation, laughter, and bike bell ringing. Marta and I simultaneously turned to eachother to exclaim our immediate fascination and love for this city, we wanted to move there immediately. After inspecting a few bars and wandering around the highly crowded streets, plazas, sidewalks, bike lanes and bridges, we returned to the tower of power that was our lofty hostel bedroom to charge up for the next day. We awoke to find that the weather consisted of a 4 course meal, elaborately presented with misty rain and cold fronts, grey skies and fog, all of which were downers, but proved not to deter us from ambling about Amsterdams´ highly confusing streets. The weather itself did not necessarily impede our progress as tourists in the Dutch capital, but succeeded in forcing us into random stores, coffee shops, doorways, and monstrous never-ending lines outside of museums. These lines included Dutch coffees for me (a nice blend between American coffee, and something that is ultimately stronger, without espresso), long-winded strings of swear words from Marta, and an ubiquitous damp blanket of north European air. Leidesplein Square, which is full of theatres and bars and was our first sight just after arriving. We visited the Van Gogh museum, and the beautiful gothically disguised super shopping mecca known as the Magna Plaza. Of Amsterdam's apparent 1287 or so bridges, the Magere Brug, or “ Skinny Bridge”- a very old drawbridge in the north eastern part of Amsterdams, was the most interesting and aesthetically pleasing. While the weather was in poor form, the tulip market was still blossoming in the midst of the confused masses. Vondelpark was full of tourists and locals walking their dogs, riding their bikes alongside the innumerous pons and bridges. The red light district opened its windows to me and every other passer-by from inside its' brothels, encased in old warped buildings. Anne Frank's house was more or less an out-of-place modern structure in the middle of the old city, and had a line winding around the block to enter. I took a picture from the outside. An old-fashioned windmill near the harbor loomed above my head like a giant in the Castillian countryside. More or less, every building that we saw was worth staring at. Apparently in the olden days, houses had hanging crane arms with pulleys on their sides, and were used to hoist goods from boats in the canals into the house. Because of the constant movement and need to support this extra weight, the majority of all houses in Amsterdam are twisted and warped, making them look dreamy as well as unstable.

The nightlife we experienced was diverse and entertaining in all aspects. One night we had a beer in a bar on our way to the red light district and the bartender, a decrepit old man who had undoubtedly worked in the bar all his life, decided to give me the incorrect amount of change for our beers. I looked at him confused as to how he could have forgotten 4 euros, and told him the change was incorrect. He looked at me in a quizical manner, turned around, grabbed 1 euro and placed in my hand saying ¨ok, thank you - see you tomorrow¨?¿¿?? Being as how the interaction was incomplete, I asked for the rest of my change 3 more times as he gave me 1 euro at a time each time I asked, saying things like ¨well ok¨ and shrugging as he sloughed over my request and got a 1 euro coin in a sluggish manner. I felt like I was taking crazy pills for the next 10 minutes as none of this made sense. I could not tell if he was joking with me, old and confused, trying to take advantage, or what. Marta had no idea what was happening because everything was managed by me in English, so she didn´t really help me to reach a conclusion. But I did learn the Spanish word - chochear - which means to dodder, or be senile. She thinks he was chocheando. I think he was just getting a kick out of the situation, and was nuts. In the bar Bourbon Street, we had the pleasure of a live samba, soul, funk-esque band played for about 3-4 hours and performed their asses off. The lead singer was a jolly round black man that was both a fantastic singer and entertainer extraordinare. He was dancing on the bar, calling up members from the crowd to dance, sweating like a farm animal, and taking the show away all night long.


Another evening, I decided to step outside for a cigarette, alone, and asked a few nearby bike riders where I could get a good beer before calling it a night. They told me the local bar they frequented was in their sights so I decided to put it in mine as well. After about 37 seconds of speaking with these two men, , I began to believe that they had to both be local gays. One, Bert, was a gigantic man probably in his late 40's a, and the other, a short, clean shaved, spiked hair, stand out flamer. On top of this, after about 15 minutes to the "local" bar, I accepted that it was perhaps only local because it was within the widely expansive city of Amsterdam. Finally entering the bar, it was then clearly evident that this was some old-dude gay bar. All worries aside, I enjoyed the ridiculous company of a man with 1 eye, the spiked hair dude who tried to hit on me, and Bert, the older chilled out local entrepreneur. After a couple of free beers, I decided to make my exit and walk a quick 364 kilometers back to the hostel, climb into bed, and consider how ludicrous this situation had been.

As I've mentioned, the streets in Amsterdam are highly confusing and in the center are long canal streets that form a "U" around the large middle island of Centrum. These streets mostly like the same, have 2 sides due to the canals, and successfully sent me walking in the wrong direction every day. Food was quite varietal and tasty all throughout the trip, as Italian, Asian, Dutch, and many other international cuisines could be found around the city. It was so refreshing to be in another country, and be able to speak English comfortably the entire time to people that weren't even native English speakers. All of the Dutch people that I saw and met were very  helpful and kind also. My only complaint is that I was not there long enough, and the weather was not at its best.
A return trip will be necessary.

.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Semana Santa step 2

A few rainy days on the beach of San Sebastian, 5 plates of mussels, countless pieces of bread mounted with seafood, and 8 hours in a bus, I was in the Catalonian capital of Barcelona. Time seemed to fly  on the bus, and I didn't ever succumb to “bus psychosis” that often affects 4 out of every 7 passengers embarking on a trip of more than 4 hours. For those unaware, bus psychosis includes: a dramatically slowed down perception of time, the apparent lack of a position in which to sleep comfortably, and the need to drink large amounts of water or use the bathroom when either, there is no water, or there is no bathroom. None of these symptoms reared their ugly heads during the trip, and I cruised into Barcelona to be pleasantly greeted by a certain miss Beceiro Saenz. A friend of hers left us the keys to her totally hip little flat in Barceloneta that had miniature ceilings, a toilet/shower combination room, and a certain earthy cave feeling to it. There were many advantages over a crowded expensive hostel that the free dwelling offered, but all things considered, the fact that I could spend the night with Marta without paying for my bedsheets was brilliant. After checking into our one-night bat cave, we went for some dinner in a small, cheap, but delicious restaurant around the corner, where we ate entirely too much square rations of assorted pizzas. Destination 2 was a curious bar that had cañas for 1€ and a TV playing the Barcelona game that I could not see at all due to our sitting decision. I “heard” Messi score 3 goals...Thanks Marta.

As I entered Barcelona, I became aware of the random presence of my cousin in the capital city, and made sure that we would spend some time together before Marta and I embarked for Holland. Emily was with her friends visiting for the weekend by chance so, we had a sunny plaza sit-down with assorted lunches, a  dockside walk by Barceloneta, and a series of confusing strolls through tight streets lined with cafes and antique stores. Goodbyes were said, haste was made, a multitude of metros, trains, and buses were mounted, and Marta and I were in Barcelona airport with time to spare. We were soon make our way from capital city to another with Amsterdam in our sights, or at least the pilots'. We got awesome meals on the plane. You know those ice creams called tandems, that have 1 side ice cream cookie sandwich, and the other half is chocolate coated nutty ice cream? Well, we get sandwiches like that where 1 half was eggsaladcurry fantasy, and the other was like, cream cheese delight with tasty ham. FLY KLM AIRLINES(http://www.klm.com/travel/generic/index.html ), they are a good company, and hell, they are royal!